Laser marking machine galvanometer motor is not self-locking
First check whether each cable is open or shorted, and the connection is correct. After confirming the error, turn on the power. Use a multimeter to measure whether the voltage at each input terminal of the power supply is ±15V. If the voltage is abnormal, the switching power supply is damaged. After the power input is normal, after all the wiring is connected, the power-on motor will usually emit two ticks. If there is no sound, then gently push the galvanometer lens with your hand, a little bit of strength, if the galvanometer lens is not self-locking. Troubleshooting: Find a well-confirmed driver board connected to a motor that is not self-locking. If it is not self-locking, the motor is broken. For the same reason, find a well-confirmed galvanometer motor, and connect it to the drive board that is not self-locking. If the power is turned on, if it is not self-locking, the galvanometer drive board is damaged. Make sure that the connection and disconnection process is carried out under the condition of cutting off the power.
The galvanometer motor is self-locking, but not strong enough
Use a well-confirmed galvanometer driver board and a good galvanometer motor to be energized normally on the driver board and galvanometer motor to be tested, and gently rotate the galvanometer axis by hand. If it becomes "hard", it is normal; otherwise It can be determined that the galvanometer drive plate and the galvanometer motor are damaged.
The galvanometer motor does not swing
Check if the motor is self-locking and whether the marking card has control signal output (Note: if the motor is self-locking, check the signal is -5V to +5V DC voltage signal) If yes, check if the galvanometer signal cable is connected properly. After confirming that the connection is correct, mark it. If there is still no swing, check if the signal line is reversed or disconnected. )
The marking has a wavy line, a slight squeak, and the driver board generates a slightly higher heat.
Check if the grounding wire is properly connected (the best grounding method is: X galvanometer signal ground, Y galvanometer signal ground, shielded wire, 220V power ground and marking housing to be connected), if the ground wire is connected If there is interference, first check whether the marking card is normal (checking method is to replace it with a well-confirmed marking card, and check whether there is still interference). If there is still interference, further check whether the galvanometer motor cable is intact. Whether there is any entanglement with other lines, if everything is normal, first replace it with a well-confirmed galvanometer driver board. If there is no interference, it can be determined that there is a problem with the galvanometer driver board; if there is interference, the galvanometer motor has a problem.
Whistling
Test the marking card signal, wiring, external interference, etc. If there is still howling, debug the potentiometer on the filter board of the galvanometer driver board. If you still can't eliminate the howling, you need to return to the company for precise adjustment.
Note: You can't be in the howling state for a long time, so as not to burn the galvanometer motor.
No sealing or over-sealing in the marking
Change the "jump delay" in the marking software, such as light exit and light off delay. If it doesn't work, then the galvanometer is not fully corrected and should be returned to the company.
